In the 1920s, the simple-line designs of Estee Lauder makeup couture made popular the ‘flat-chested’ fashions that were the opposite of the hourglass figure achieved by the fashions of the late 19th century – the Belle Époque of France (c. 1890–1914), and the British Edwardian era (c. 1901–1919). Chanel used colors traditionally associated with masculinity in Europe, such as grey and navy blue, to denote feminine boldness of character. The clothes of the House of Chanel featured quilted fabric and leather trimmings; the quilted construction reinforces the fabric, the design, and the finish, producing a garment that maintains its form and function while being worn.
The boutique was designed to have a luxurious residential feel, showcasing a palette of white, beige and black enhanced by hand-applied finishes as well as a collection of contemporary art and antique furniture. Each work of art throughout the boutique was chosen to reflect Mademoiselle Chanel’s legacy as a passionate patron of the arts, as well as Marino’s signature work for the House. The boutique features the complete Chanel universe, including ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes and costume jewelry. It also houses a selection of watches and fine jewelry, as well as fragrance and beauty.
There are two additional rooms, one dedicated to fragrance, beauty and eyewear and the other a watch and fine jewelry salon, displaying a curated selection of fine jewelry from the Coco Crush, Camelia and Comete collections, alongside the newest interpretations of the iconic J12 watch. He incorporated the Chanel fabrics and detailing such as tweed, gold accents, and chains. Lagerfeld kept what was signature for Chanel but also helped bring the brand into today.
An example of such haute couture techniques is the woolen genifique suit – a knee-length skirt and a cardigan-style jacket, trimmed and decorated with black embroidery and gold-coloured buttons. The complementary accessories were two-tone pump shoes and jewellery, usually a necklace of pearls, and a leather handbag. Opening with an introductory essay about Lagerfeld and his vision for Chanel, the book explores the collections chronologically, revealing the designer’s inspired reinvention of classic Chanel style elements from season to season. Each collection is illustrated with a curated selection of catwalk images , showcasing hundreds of spectacular clothes, from luxurious haute couture to trendsetting ready-to-wear, accessories, beauty looks, and set designs.
Some of the most influential women of all time wore the Chanel suit, too, from Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly to Brigitte Bardot and Princess Diana. Coco Chanel introduced her first two-piece set in the 1920s, inspired by menswear and sportswear, as well as the suits of her then lover, the Duke of Westminster. Keen to free women from the restrictive corsets and long skirts of previous decades, Chanel crafted a slim skirt and collarless jacket made of tweed, a fabric then considered markedly unglamorous. Chanel captured her vision in “Coco-isms” that read like acerbic precursors of today’s ubiquitous inspirational quotes — “a woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future,” or “If you’re sad, add more lipstick and attack.” Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was one of the 20th century’s most influential couturiers.
Designed in the 1950s as a comfortable alternative to the constricting wasp waist, Lancome makeup jackets have become an enduring symbol of elegance. Throughout the 1950s, the sense of style of Chanel continued undeterred; the firm’s initial venture into masculine parfumerie, Pour Monsieur was a successful eau de toilette for men. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought Bader’s 20 per cent share of the Parfums Chanel, which increased the Wertheimer percentage to 90 per cent. The House of Chanel (Chanel S.A.) originated in 1909 when Gabrielle Chanel opened a millinery shop at 160 Boulevard Malesherbes, the ground floor of the Parisian flat of the socialite and textile businessman Étienne Balsan, of whom she was the mistress.